Review: Brandlin Estate 2018 Henry's Keep Proprietary Red Mount Veeder, Napa Valley ($115)

 This blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec, 3% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot could be labeled as a Cabernet Sauvignon, but I assume veteran winemaker Steve Rogstad wants some blending flexibility for future editions, so it is simply called a "proprietary red" blend. The real beauty of the wine is that it perfectly captures the terroir of Brandlin Estate on Mount Veeder at the southwestern end of the Mayacamas range. Mt. Veeder delivers great concentration, but fragrant wines that aren't heavy on the palate. That is exactly what you get here. The nose is of dried flowers with hints of madrone and mocha, and the winery describes the red and black currant fruit notes as "shimmering," which is pretty close to a perfect description. This gorgeous red is as feathery as it is powerful, and that's what Mt. Veeder does best. (94 Points)

Review: Brandlin 2016 Henry's Keep Proprietary Red Mount Veeder Napa Valley ($110)

These days when you see the words 'proprietary red' on a wine label, you can usually expect a mish-mash of a wine that often has a lot of Zinfandel in it, no knock on Zinfandel. I usually try to avoid looking at the grapes in the blend before I try a red blend like this, because I want to be more influenced by how the whole wine comes together. Wines like this should ideally show off the winemaker's blending skills.

This red blend is redolent of blue and black fruit - blueberry, boysenberry, and black currant with hints of dill, tarragon, and red bell pepper. It's weighty on the palate, but also has lots of structure and presence as well as moderate acidity, it's mouthfilling, complex and deep, and is gut-level delicious. It works, and it's a very well thought-out blend.

When I did peek at the back label and saw that the red was a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot, 7% Malbec, and 2% Cabernet Franc, it all made sense. Petit Verdot makes pretty massive, structured wines and 25% in a blend is a LOT, and it really fills out the center of this wine. Petit Verdot is also one of the pricier grapes per ton from Napa Valley - often more expensive than Cabernet Sauvignon on the bulk market. Here it really plumps up and adds density to the more generally elegant profile of Mt. Veeder Cabernet. Should handle 4 to 8 years in the cellar, no problem. (94 Points)

-Tim Teichgraeber