Taittinger Champagne NV Releases for Holiday Season

I've always found Taittinger to be a pretty dependable label, if also a fairly conservative one in terms of house style and marketing. The wines have a nice medium-weight sensibility and aren't extreme or unusual. I was pleased to have a chance to taste two non-vintage (NV) bottles recently: La Francaise, the house's mainstream NV Champagne and the Grands Crus NV, Prelude.

Taittinger Brut La Francaise NV ($50) This is a blend of about 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir with pretty citrus, red apple and dough notes. It's very easy to drink, but I wish it had a bit more verve and personality - either racier acidity or more yeastiness, or probably both. (89)

Taittinger Brut Grands Crus Prelude NV ($75) I quite enjoyed this one.It's brighter, more zesty, made in a zippy, clean style, but also has some deep bready notes and hints of red fruit. Very straight-ahead and correct, but absolutely delicious. A 50/50 mix of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. For me, this delivers the goods I want from high quality Champagne. Really well done. (93)