Simonsig 2023 Chenin Blanc South Africa ($15)

Chenin Blanc is the classic white grape of South Africa, and the country still has over 40,000 acres planted to the grape (although that has declined some in the last couple of decades. South Africa produces some lovely Chenin, and this is a great example at a very fair price. Simonsig's is not terribly dramatic in the nose (typical of Chenin), but it's fresh, zesty, and bright with subtle asian pear and citrus flavors. It would make a great match with raw oysters or ceviche. Imported by Quintessential. (90 Points)

- Tim Teichgraeber

 

A Lovable Pinotage?

I've formed a few opinions over my 20 years in the wine industry, and one of those opinions is that some wine grapes have more potential than others. I do believe that some grapes are more 'noble' than others, and when it comes to Pinotage, a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault that became a South African specialty, I'd grade it about a B-minus in terms of its overall potential.

Bellingham's 2011 "The Bernard Series," Bush Vine Pinotage doesn't come cheap ($35), but it does show that a fair-to-middlin' grape can do something special when it comes from old vines planted in the right site that finds its way to a good winemaker. I was surprised at the sweet fruit and concentration of the wine. It was clean and profoundly fruity with bright blueberry highlights and a deep center of rich black raspberry fruit and nary a touch of the black rubber aromas that I often notice in the variety . I'd liken this one to an old vine Zinfandel, but it was a bit more delicate on the finish and chimed in at 14% alcohol, well below most contemporary Zinfandels.

The dry-farmed old vines give it tremendous concentration, and I don't think you'll find anything like it from outside of South Africa.