Some of the Riesling vines on this property at the top of Spring Mountain date back to the 1970's, and the estate vineyard produces a wine that is nothing less than a complete freak of nature. No one would ever plant Riesling in this location today, but these deeply-rooted vines on the rocky slopes of Spring Mountain produce a wine that is remarkably opulent, voluptuous, and completely unique. You just have to hand it to the Smith brothers for continuing to make this wine and not re-planting to Cabernet Sauvignon, which would certainly bring a better profit margin. This medium-full bodied wine is redolent of apricot, but it still has some bright green apple and citrus notes. There's no notable oak at play, but the wine is rich and round. We roast a lot of chickens around here, and usually I think a Chardonnay is the perfect fit, but this Riesling? This one works very well, thank you. When you travel the world tasting wine for a long time, you learn that there are some wines that don't make sense on paper, but they make perfect sense in the glass. This is one of those wines. (93 points)
- Tim Teichgraeber
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