On September 17, 2004 I did an interview and tasting with Bibiana, a winemaker that has been on my radar for several years because she makes truly outstanding wines.
We were supposed to meet up in 2020, and if your 2020 was anything like mine, you won't be surprised to hear that things didn't exactly work out as planned. It was nice to finally meet her, if only via Zoom this year (video below). She's a genuinely interesting person and a winemaker, so I hope you watch some of the video. This is my first video interview for this blog so this one started a bit late and it's a little sloppy, but I will try to improve these video interviews and video editing skills...
We tasted a handful of wines that she makes in very small quantities under the Cattleya and Shared Notes brands (most of these wines are 100 to 150 cases per wine). These are pretty expensive wines, but they are so good that they do have an overseas audience. We discuss this in the Zoom interview (link below).
Bibiana also makes some very affordable wines under the Alma de Cattleya label that are produced in a bit larger quantities that sell for $25 to $30 a bottle. They are well worth seeking out if you are an American consumer. They are fresh, direct, and beautifully-made Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Rosé wines that over-deliver for the money.
She has worked at a calvacade of outstanding wineries. Her first internship was at Haut Brion in Bordeaux. She worked at Ogier in Côte Rotie, did time in Burgundy, Peay and Lynmar in Sonoma. That's a sick CV, and her experience shows in every wine that she makes. They are technically excellent, terroir-driven wines with great acidity and balance that reflects her knowledge of what great wines should taste like.
The Shared Notes wines are made in partnership with her husband Jeff Pisoni, himself a second-generation winemaker from the Central Coast Santa Lucia Highlands. The Shared Notes 2023 Sauvignon Blanc is a good argument for two heads are better than one rather than there are too many cooks in the kitchen. We talked about this a bit as well.
Here are some reviews of recent releases as well as an un-edited recording of most of our interview, including painful footage of me trying to work through a wax capsule on the Shared Notes Sauvignon Blanc.
Here is most of my Zoom interview with Bibiana, and full reviews of the wines we tasted follow. (Full disclosure, I despise wax capsules.) I hope you will enjoy my interview with one of California's best up-and-coming winemakers!
Also note... as we cut into this conversation, Bibiana is discussing how it's tough for the best California wines to find a place in New York, but they're finding an audience overseas in Japan and the UK.
WATCH THE CONVERSATION HERE:
Shared Notes 2023 Les Pierres Qui Décident Russian River Valley ($90) A brilliant example of contemporary California Sauvignon Blanc with honeydew melon, gooseberry, grapefruit, and lemongrass notes. It is unfiltered, unfined, and mouth-filling, but racy and mouth-watering with a pH of a bit over 3.0. Killer. Only 99 cases produced. (95 Points)
Cattleya 2022 The Temptress Chardonnay Russian River Valley ($75) Tempting indeed. Like the best Contemporary California Chardonnay, this is luscious, decadent, and also focused and grounded. It shows a good bit of fine french oak in the decadent hazenut and caramel notes that hit you right away. Then you get orange, apricot, and lemon curd flavors that carry through the nutty finish. This is a very California wine, and not nearly reductive and Burgundian in technique as, say, a Chardonnay from Ramey. It's expressive, cozy, and delicious. 185 cases produced. (94 Points)
Cattleya 2022 Belly of the Whale Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast ($85) This wine comes from the Sea ___ vineyard, which is at an elevation about 1,300 feet overlooking the Pacific near Petaluma in Sonoma County. These kind of sites are above the fog-line, and constitute a unique, exciting terroir that extends all the way up to Mendocino County. Because these elevated sites are usually pretty rocky, you usually get some nervy wines from them. I wouldn't describe this wine that way. This one is supple and plush, with black cherry, black tea, plum flavors and some mild conifer aromas. After re-visiting this wine later in the day, I appreciate its umami notes, but I find myself wondering whether it could have been picked a little earlier. It's really good, but drink sooner rather than later. 115 cases produced. (92 Points)
Cattleya 2022 The Goddess Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast ($125) This is a spectacular wine because it separates itself from comparatively boring alternatives like a firework display. The flavor profile of this wine is all over the map. It has wild berry brambly notes, hints of pepper, pennyroyal herb, red cherry, and blackberry. If there were a mineral bit in the mouth of this bucking bronco of a wine, it might be one of the best wines I've ever had, but it's a little tame on the finish. This is a roller-coaster that you want to ride. 120 cases produced. (96 Points)
Cattleya 2022 The Initiation Syrah Santa Lucia Highlands ($70) Bibiana did some time working in Cote Rotie in the northern Rhone, so she knows what Syrah is supposed to taste like. This wine is in that pocket, smoky, sultry, deep, and savory. It is also a very California wine at the end of the day, and it does have a bit of a syrupy finish. I experience notes of brown sugar, a hint of bacon, rasbperry, blackberry, menthol, and wood. It's rich, savory, long, and lavish. 99 cases produced. (92 Points)
Shared Notes 2022 Les Leçons des Maîtres ($75) Bordeaux-inspired blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon that hits all the bases. Brisk acidity and good body, with zesty lime, grapefruit notes fading into fuller honeydew melon and subtle honey notes, all within an compact frame netting out at just around 13% alcohol. There's little obvious new oak, and the wine really sings. 195 cases produced. (94)
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