Sunday, February 9, 2020

Languedoc Region Boasts Quality and Range

The Languedoc was the first part of France that the Romans used to expand viticulture into, and as recently as the 1980's, the Languedoc produced 10% of the worlds entire wine production. Back then, the region was mostly a source of cheap, basic red table wine. Over the last few decades though, the region is shoring up the quality of wines and showing off its excellent terroirs and sub-zones in spectacular fashion. Having spend a lot of time in this area, I genuinely believe is is one of the finest wine production areas in the world. Insider tip: it is also one of the most underappreciated, perhaps because it is complicated and difficult to understand, just as Burgundy is.

Do not let the complications of the Languedoc deter you from diving in to these deep waters. You will almost never be disappointed. Imagine saying that about investing in Burgundy... I'll leave it at that.

In the last several years I've had the great pleasure of twice attending a wine conference in the Languedoc region of Southern France called Terroirs et Millesimes. It's an incredible event, with massive regional wine tastings every morning, master classes, and visits to numerous A.O.C. regions withing the Languedoc like Faugeres, Pic St. Loup, Terrasses du Larzac, Picpoul de Pinet, and Minervois. My first visit to this area ten years ago was truly eye-opening, and my impression of the area only gets better and better.

Not only are the wines from decent producers almost uniformly excellent, the region boasts an impressive range of wine styles. Red blends from varieties including Grenache, Carignan, Mourvedre and Syrah are certainly the dominant varieties of the Languedoc, but you also get excellent rose wines, sparkling wines from Limoux, and even Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon from Malpere.

Here are reviews of a few wines I received recently from the French promotions agency Sopexa.



Cochon Volant 2018 Corbieres Rose ($12 est.) It could certainly be argued that the making of rose in the South of France is more a science than it is an art form with a broad expression of styles, but damned if they don't get it right 95% of the time. You're expected to make a light style, floral, fragrant rose, and almost everyone does, which is why the wines are so reliably delicious. This 90% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre rose is right in the pocket with quince and lavender aromas, and light, juicy violet and strawberry notes. (88 Points) 

Maris 2017 Languedoc Rouge ($18) Made from certified organic Syrah (80%) and Grenache (20%), this lovely red is produced by Chateau Maris, a substantial estate based in the Minervois A.O.C., but not all of the grapes are estate grown. Who really cares? It's a gorgeous medium-to-full weight red with juicy plum and raspberry fruit, garrigue (Languedoc countryside scrub) herb notes and great balance. Highly recommended. (90 Points)

Antech  2016 Limoux "Heritage" Brut Millesime ($20 est.) I'm not sure how widely distrubuted Antech's Limoux sparkling wines are in the U.S., but having tasted them many times (often blind, at Terroirs et Millesimes), I can testify that they are probably the most consistent, finest wines of Limoux. Coming from the Bay Area, the brand Antech sounds like it should almost have the words "Technology Solutions" following it, and the labels are stark. Don't let that fool you. This is a 6th generation family firm dating back to the 1890's. The 2016 vintage is lemony and crisp, rounded out by yeasty, bready notes, and punctuated with great bubbles. It's a very satisfying and reasonably priced sparkler. (90 Points)

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