Up until this year I really hadn't had much experience with Pineau de Charentes (popular shorthand "PDC"), a fortified, semi-sweet spirit from Charente, the French departement that surrounds the famous brandy region of Cognac. PdC is made by adding unaged Cognac eau de vie to un-fermented grape juice, or slightly fermented grape must, then the mixture is matured in barrel for at least 8 months, sometimes for several years.The final result is usually right around 17% alcohol.
Most PdC is made using the preferred local white grape varieties for Cognac like Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Columbard. There are also rose and red versions, the latter usually made from Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.
Though it's made with the juice of wine grapes, PdC really isn't a wine. It's more like a liqueur.
PdC is pretty delicious stuff, and it makes a great aperitif, usually served by itself, well chilled. It's also a popular accompaniment to foie gras. It's a little bit sweet, but not cloying, with the sugar balanced well by a bit of alcohol and nice acidity.
Because of it's sweetness and complex flavors, it has been gaining popularity as a cocktail ingredient. It basically is a cocktail, now that think about it... Some people like it with tonic (with an orange peel or lemon garnish). It's great with a couple of ice cubes as long as you don't dilute it too much, and an ounce of PdC can add a lot of panache to a glass of sparkling wine. It's not exactly the same thing, but young Pineau reminds me in some ways of the aperitif wine Lillet, which I also adore. The older, longer aged Pineaus are often compared to fortified tawny Ports because of their richer flavors and similar alcohol levels.
Rayon d'Or Pineau des Charentes ($25 est.) My old lady's cousin brought us this a couple of years ago and we just hadn't opened it since. I guess we weren't sure what to do with it. I finally cracked the screwcap and fell in love. It has a range of flavors slightly akin to a young tawny Port, with notes of raisin, orange marmalade, and caramel apple, but it's a bit fresher, brighter, and I think less viscous than a tawny. Like a tawny Port, it should be great as an accompaniment to all kinds of cheeses. (91 Points)
Bache Gabrielsen Very Old Pineau des Charentes ($42 est.) From the small Cognac maker of the same name, this one is aged 10 years and has deep apple pie, juicy fresh gala apple, cinnamon, caramel, and cardamom notes. Deep, complex, juicy and utterly delicious. (93 Points)
Hardy Le Coq d'Or Pineau des Charentes ($25) From a well-known Cognac producer, this is a bright, relatively affordable and well-made Pineau with zesty orange, apple pie, cinnamon, and caramel notes. Textbook young Pineau at a reasonable price. (90 Points)
Reviseur Pineau des Charentes Vieux Pineau ($35) This older PdC has been aged for five years in barrel, giving it rich caramel, golden raisin, orange marmalade, vanilla, and cafe au lait flavors that are nicely layered and rich with a nutty, spicy finish. (92 Points)
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