It's been marvelous to revisit this Napa Valley classic Chardonnay over the last couple of years. When I was working in a retail shop in St. Paul in the 1990's this was perhaps the 'fanciest' California Chardonnay that we sold. It was opulent, decadent, and draped in a distinctive gilt Art Nouveau label. And it was delicious. This wine is still pretty much all of those things, but today it seems opulent in a more restrained, contemporary way and mostly comes from grapes grown in Coombsville at the cooler southern end of Napa Valley and matured in about 45% new oak. There's still a hint of butter on the nose, and plenty of oaky baking spice notes, but it has complex layers of stone fruit, cantaloupe, citrus and kaffir lime leaf, and also has nice acidity. Maybe it doesn't have quite as much minerality as a fine Corton Charlemagne, but it is just as voluptuous and rich. My taste generally gravitates to crisper wines these days, but dammit, this wine is freaking DELICOUS. (95 Points)
- Tim Teichgraeber
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