Kenneth Juhasz is making some very Burgundian-inspired, spectacular wines at Sonoma-based Auteur. This Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay is decidedly restrained, weighing in at an alleged 12.8% alcohol, with tense flint, apricot, gardenia, and jasmine aromas. Well-chilled, it would be hard to peg this as a California Chardonnay, but it doesn't come across as Burgundy, either. As it warms, a bit of subtle oak becomes apparent, but it remains bright, elegant, and tightly-wound. This is a subtle, not showy wine, but it has tons of class. It's a little like a Wong Kar-wai Film - it rewards the attentive and patient. (94 Points).
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