I have to be honest... I definitely thought that by 2023 Syrah's progress in the United States would have been better. I ABSOLUTELY ADORE Syrah. I love the fact that is is almost a perfect split of fruity notes and savory, bloody, leathery notes, plus some peppery spice drizzled on top. But Syrah's progress in the U.S. has been unsteady. There are some winemakers that have planted it in the right places and handled it well, and there have been many more experiments. And a lot of failed experiments.
I think it's fair to say at this point that:
1: This grape is far more climate finicky than was previously thought; and
2: The clay and limestone soils that it loves are not that common in California.
The best Syrah from California seems to come from cool coastal regions, some balmier but still ocean-influenced parts of Paso Robles, some coastal parts of Santa Barbara County, and sometimes from the Bennett Valley of Sonoma, which is cooled by the Petaluma Gap.
There are a couple of Syrahs from California that consistently deliver great varietal character and value for under $20. One is this J. Lohr South Ridge bottling, The other is the Qupé Central Coast Syrah.
It is savory, concentrated, full of generous black fruit, and just a hint of pepper and grilled meat. It's a flavor profile that says, "This is Syrah," and it does it for a very fair price. This is a legit, very consistent wine.
(88 Points)
- Tim Teichgraeber
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