Wednesday, August 14, 2019

Humboldt Distillery's Abe Stevens

I recently sat down with Humboldt Distillery's founder and distiller Abe Stevens to talk about the state of craft distilling and what he's been up to lately, including the creation of a cannabis sativa / hemp seed-infused vodka called Humboldt's Finest.

Humboldt Distillery founder Abe Stevens


Abe Stevens is a fifth generation Humboldt County native (a topic probably deserving its own book), who also happens to be very well-traveled. He attended University of Chicago earning degrees in chemistry and biochemistry. He moved back west to the East Bay before he was yanked cross-country to New York to work for pharma powerhouse Chiron.

When he lived in the East Bay he played a lot of poker at the Oaks Club in Oakland and discovered he had a pretty good head for the game. In New York he played illegal underground games and eventually wound up playing poker professionally for a few years, including, naturally, the World Series of Poker.

When it came time to settle down and raise a family, Stevens decided to cash in his chips and move back to the sleepy coastal town of Fortuna in Humboldt County and immerse himself in distilling. He founded his distillery in 2012. "I always appreciated the redwoods and the natural beauty of Humboldt County," he told me, adding, "I'm glad I got in when I did."

Stevens' first release was a hit - a certified organic, sugar cane-based vodka that has earned great scores from critics and a double-gold medal from the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, by far the most exacting American spirits competition. (A double-gold medal means that the panel of judges, usually 3 judges, unanimously agree that the product is first-rate). The accolades and the quality of the product have helped Stevens to gain entry into some major retail accounts in California, like Whole Foods, BevMo, and Total Wines.

Today Stevens also makes a spiced rum that is flavored with all-natural vanilla, allspice and a few other proprietary seasonings. It's a refreshing alternative to some of the spiced rums out there that are full of artificial or highly refined flavorings.

Humboldt Distillery's latest release is the hemp seed-infused Humboldt's Finest vodka. Don't worry - the vodka is THC free and has no psychoactive effects. It is made with legally grown industrial hemp, and is legal in all 50 states.

Humboldt County is part of the famed 'green triangle where most of California's pot is grown. Abe says people just kept asking him when he was going to make a weed-infused booze, so he figured he had to keep experimenting until he developed a recipe he could be proud of. Humboldt's Finest also received a double-gold medal from the SF International Spirits Competition in 2017.

"A lot of people expect a skunkier profile," explained Stevens. Abe says he was looking for a 'fresh leaf' quality, not a strong weedy flavor. "A lot of people compare it to gin, actually," Stevens says, explaining that both juniper, the main botanical in most gin, and cannabis, both share a key terpene: alpha pinene. The development of Humboldt's Finest took a lot of experimentation, and when it comes to the exact infusion technique, Stevens plays his cards pretty close to the vest.

Interestingly, Stevens says the legalization of weed in California has put a big dent in the profits of clandestine Humboldt County growers. "When it was illegal, they would get $3,000 to $4,000 a pound, and now they get $500."

I'm not a pot smoker, and I was worried that the aromas of the hemp-infused vodka might be a little bit off-putting. They aren't. It really smells somewhat like gin, if a bit more directly piney with a hint of anise.

In cocktails, think of Humboldt's Finest vodka as an alternative to gin. It herbaceous notes pair well with spring/summer ingredients like lime, cucumber, and basil, and it even makes a fine bloody mary.

If you're in the neighborhood, tours and tastings of Humboldt Distillery are by appointment. Just call the number on the website.

-Tim Teichgraeber


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