Review: Migration Charles Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay Sonoma Coast ($56)

This superb, small production (200 cases produced), cool-climate Chardonnay comes from a vineyard planted at 900 ft. elevation  on the Sonoma Coast, close to the Pacific Ocean, in Green Valley is green-gold in color with apricot, saltwater and fresh tarragon aromas and white peach, lemon zest, and watermelon (!) flavors with just a hint of butteriness. The oak is quite subtle - it fits the wine like a glove. It's a great example of the beautiful cool-climate Chardonnays coming off the chilly north coast of California these days, and just a thrilling wine, period. It hasn't much in common with a  white Burgundy, but it is every bit as brilliant and inspirational. (95 points)
-Tim Teichgraeber