Thursday, June 14, 2018

Review: Woodinville Whiskey Company Bourbon & Rye Whiskeys



Established in 2010 by Orlin Sorensen and Brett Carlile, this Washington State distillery is still in its infancy, but it has earned some accolades, and there is a former Maker's Mark distiller (David Pickerell) consulting on the project. Woodinville Whiskey Company works with grain from the Omlin family's own farm in Quincy, Washington.

This distillery's early efforts are quite good, so good, in fact, that the business has already been sold to Moet Hennesey USA in 2017, though the founders are still very much involved in production. Having grown up in Kentucky and being a great appreciator of quality Bourbon, I am seldom drawn to bourbons or other whiskeys made elsewhere in the U.S. by less experienced whiskey makers that usually sell for much higher prices because they are made in smaller batches at newer ventures.

That said, I know there are very good whiskeys produced, and small distilleries have popped up all over the country. Some will make it, and probably a lot will fail. It takes a long time to make great whiskey, so starting a company from scratch is a tough cash flow proposition. Most high quality Bourbon is aged at least 4 years in barrel, and the really good stuff is often 7 years old or older.

One thing that I like about Woodinville Whiskey Company, is that the product is all locally-sourced, from the corn to the barley, rye and water. That is always what gives a small distillery a chance to stand out from the crowd.

Woodinville Whiskey Company Straight Bourbon Whiskey ($40) This pot-distilled 90-proof straight Bourbon (straight means there is not added coloring or flavoring - always the hallmark of a serious whiskey) has decadent chocolate, butterscotch, and toffee aromas as well as some earthy and raspy, spicy notes from the barley and rye in the mashbill.

It is very well distilled, with a bit of lingering roundness on the palate and a bit of earthiness, that for me distinguishes fatter, pot-stilled whiskey or rum from slightly smoother continuous-stilled products. Maybe it's the pot still distillation in part, and maybe the limited production blending that displays some seams, but it comes across as an interesting, enjoyable, slightly rustic, and very worthwhile spirit.

 For a very young company, I'm impressed with this offering. It's interesting, has something unique to offer, and is well-made. I like it -- a very high quality non-Kentucky Bourbon that's well worth trying. (91 Points) 

Woodinville Whiskey Company Straight Rye Whiskey ($40) Rye-based whiskies tend to be a bit raspier and leaner than corn-based whiskies, which are generally relatively pretty round, plush, and fat, and then tend to derive their spicier notes and complexity from barrels.

I do appreciate rye whiskey, even if I don't often prefer it to Bourbon. There is something very genuine and working-class about rye. It's coarse, like a hand with callouses, it's no frills, honest, and hard-working. And Woodinville's is a very good one.

I really like the way this whiskey comes together. I think it's brilliantly constructed. This 100% Washington-grown rye whiskey smells like rye, then it blossoms and blooms in the mouth with added vanilla and spice notes, it blooms on the palate and then gently fades like the trailing edge of a firework. This is an extraordinary blend that's artfully put together and is nearly perfectly designed. Very impressive. (95 points)


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