Subtract all pretense, all wanna-be complexity, all expense, and you have Backpack fizzy white, an 11.5%, relatively low alcohol white wine that has racy acidity and no oak.
It's brilliant. It manages to fit all of the best qualities of the world's best wine values into a compact can. This is an incredibly refreshing wine, spritzy and high in acid, low in alcohol, and it's hard to put down.
It's one of the most drinkable white wines I've had so far this year. It's not much unlike a Portuguese Vinho Verde, but maybe has a bit more body. Or maybe a little like a Cotes de Gascogne with a little spritz.
As a wine critic, I really want to understand how you can accomplish this with Central Valley fruit (I make this assumption because of the Modesto headquarters of the company).
I don't think the rose is as interesting, but it is equally refreshing, simple and straightforward, and also has a light spritz. If you are shopping for wine in a can, keep an eye out for Backpack. The white is killer and the rose will not disappoint.