There are some Pinot Noir craftsmen (craftspeople) who are in pursuit of the balance that Pinot Noir has to offer, and there are others that have achieved it. I would count Fulcrum's David Rossi in the latter camp, and I need to start reminding myself to recommend his wines when people ask me what they should be buying.
What's wild about David Rossi is that he really didn't have a grand master tutor. He's a self-taught New Jersey home winemaker who still divides time between the east and west coasts, but he makes seriously impressive Pinot Noirs from very high quality sources.
The Fulcrum 2012 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir has tangy red cherry, raspberry and rhubarb pie aromas with notes of cinnamon, cumin and coriander. There's no unnecessary oak flavoring. The wine is labeled at a bit over 14% alcohol, but it actually feels like that might be a little bit lower than that. It's an agile, focused wine that still has well-developed fruit an flavor. It's a lovable wine, plain and simple. (92)