Friday, January 16, 2015

Damilano 2010 'Lecinquevigne' Barolo DOCG

Nebbiolo is funny stuff. The color often suggests that some autumn oak leaves made it into the fermenter, and the flavors can give the same impression. Then there's that underlying tartness and mouth-drying tannin that reminds you that this is high-acid Italian red wine and nothing else. This Damilano bottling is all of those things. It doesn't stand with the best offerings of the region, but given a bit of time it starts to show some intricacies. It has relatively focused cherry, raspberry, leather, loam tomato and grape leaf aromas, and the nose is interesting and typical. By the second glass it opens up to show more rose petal aromas, deeper cherry notes and even a bit of classic Barolo tar. It's initially lean on the palate, but it does open up, or perhaps you simply re-calibrate to meet it halfway. There's a bit of dried red fruit, a bit of earthiness and a lot of tartness with a hint of fresh cigar complexity, but all of that seems to relax and become more generous as it opens up. It has enough structure to live for 5 or 10 years. I would definitely look back to this producer. The wine is modern, clean and well-made. (90)

No comments:

Post a Comment