Another excellent Chardonnay from Kenneth Juhasz at Auteur. Like most of the rather Burgundian-style Chardonnays that this label produces, it is taut, precise, and disciplined, but the exotic Bacigalupi vineyard fruit does pierce the veil. You'll note narrowly focused lemon, apricot, and kaffir lime leaf notes in the mix. This is a medium-bodied, not at all buttery, subtle, new breed of California Chard that merits attention and respect. It was divine with a roast chicken and a Zuni-esque bread salad on a cool, foggy Oakland night in June. (94 points)
- Tim Teichgraeber
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