Monday, March 22, 2021

Review: Kenefick Ranch Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc from Napa Valley

Of Irish origin, Tom Kenefick settled in Iowa, and later in Minnesota, where he attended the University of Minnesota Medical School. He was a practicing neurologist in San Francisco when he fell in love with Napa Valley wines, and in 1970 and purchased a 250-acre ranch on the western slopes of the Vaca Mountain Palisades near Calistoga. Dr. Tom has been farming 125 acres of vineyards there ever since. He sells most of the grapes, but reserves some of the best for his family label of small production wines.

Kenefick Ranch 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Calistoga Napa Valley ($30) This white is a pretty lavish affair. Estate grown and barrel fermented, it has opulent aromas of clover, white peach, spring peas, and lemon drop. The barrel fermentation and lees stirring (batonnage) gives it a rich mouthfeel and generous apricot and citrus flavors and a tamarind-like sweet and sour finish. It is very much a Napa Valley-style Sauvignon Blanc. (90 Points)

Kenefick Ranch 2016 'Caitlin's Select' Cabernet Franc Calistoga Napa Valley ($50) This is a LOVELY Cab Franc from Calistoga, and the price point is really modest for an estate bottled wine from this neighborhood. It has a wonderful brightness and freshness on the nose, with violet, dried herbs, blueberry and blackcurrant notes that highlight its youth. On the palate there are more of the tobacco and mint notes that Cabernet Franc is known for, black fruit, and a bit of leather and tar hinting at the volcanic Vaca Range soils in play. It may not be cheap, but it's a good value all considered, and it warrants a few years in the cellar. (93 Points) 

- Tim Teichgraeber 

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