Oliver Wines from Indiana

 

 

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For all of my experience in the world of wine, I don't often have the opportunity to taste wine from middle America. Pretty much every state has a winery these days, and there are quite a few in the midwest, some of them remarkably large. A lot are much bigger than mid-sized California wineries that have nationwide distribution. These middle-American wineries often cater to a local or regional audience, offer a local wine country experience. In some cases their most popular wines are off-dry or sweet wines that are different from most of what the West Coast makes, but are clearly popular with many Americans.

Indiana's largest winery, Oliver, is remarkably successful and sells in a couple dozen states. It makes close to 500,000 cases of wine a year between its Oliver and Creekbend brands, making it perhaps the largest winery east of the Mississippi. When they offered to send me some samples, I was more than curious. Some of the offerings are not exactly 'up my alley,' but it was really interesting to taste them.

Oliver Blueberry Moscato ($  ) Made from Moscato grapes and blueberry juice from concentrate, it's a modest 6.8% alcohol, and there is some added sugar.  It has a light, bubble gum-like color. The moscato grapes give it a floral, juicy nose, and the blueberry flavors are mild and not too forward. It is sweet, but the sweetness is balanced with some nice, tart acidity. It's pretty well-made overall.

Creekbend Vineyard 2019 III Estate Bottled White ($  ) A blend of Vignoles, Vidal Blanc, and Chardonel, this white has a subtle nose of paraffin wax and orange blossoms and fairly dry melon, apple and citrus flavors, good weight on the palate. You might compare it to a lightly or un-oaked Chardonnay. 

Creekbend Vineyard 2019 Chambourcin Rosé ($  ) Chambourcin is a French-American hybrid grape that is a 'tinturier,' or a grape that has colored juice and is often used in a blend to increase a wine's color. Not surprisingly, this is a pretty dark rosé that looks kind of like a light red. It has bright raspberry flavors, good acid, and isn't as sweet as I thought it might be. It doesn't really have the finesse of a Southern French rosé, but it makes a fine porch sipper.

Creekbend Vineyard 2019 Estate Bottled Noir ($  ) Not a world-beater, but this is a lovely red wine, particularly in the nose. It's not at all overtly oaky and has a pretty, bright nose of cherry and raspberry, even blueberry. It's light to medium-weight, and while not super complex or long on the finish, it's quite pleasant. It's a blend of about 60% Corot Noir and 40% Marechal Foch (the latter being one of the better midwest hybrit reds imho). 

Oliver Sweet Red ($  ) This one's a bit of a challenge for me because I really don't have a sweet tooth, and the nose is really 'foxy.' Foxy is one of those weird wine terms that's hard to describe, and I guess I would say it's a smell a little bit like bubblegum-scented fabric softener. It's a word that is commonly used to describe the aroma of some native American grapes (vitis labrusca) and some hybrids. Some people don't mind that foxy aroma at all.

 

New "Légende" series of affordable négociant wines from Bordeaux's Domaines Barons de Rothschild

 

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Here's how the company describes this new line and what it is supposed to represent:

"Légende offers consumers a journey through the different terroirs and tastes of the heralded Bordeaux region through the eyes of one of the region’s most prestigious producers, Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). “It all started in the nineties. We wanted to offer our consumers a discovery of the different terroirs and tastes of Bordeaux. A name had to be found. A name that could live up to the expectations. A hint to the Rothschild family and the rich history of Château Lafite. A légende was born.” Crafted by long-time Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) winemaker, Diane Flamand, Légende wines demonstrate a remarkable balance between tradition and modernity. With a product range that includes each of the five major appellations in Bordeaux: Bordeaux Rouge, Bordeaux Blanc, Médoc, Saint-Emilion and Pauillac, Légende wines have an approachable style, inspired by every day drinkability and enjoyment."

I think this is an impressive new series that might have good success in the American market if they can get younger consumers to bite. These wines are a nice step up from Mouton Cadet and a good example of the terrific Bordeaux wines you can buy these days at moderate prices.

Domaines Barons de Rothschild Légende 2016 Pauillac Bordeaux ($55) This blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot from Pauillac is very approachable and fresh with bright, with vibrant violet and blueberry aromas, deep black currant and red currant fruit and a hint of tobacco leaf on the finish. Clean, balanced and agile, but with just enough muscle and structure. It was spectacular with braised lamb shanks, and could definitely be cellared for a few more years. (92 Points)

 Domaines Barons de Rothschild Légende 2016 St.-Emilion Bordeaux ($40) The St.-Emilion showcases the charms of Merlot with a velvety, plummy nose, generous raspberry, blueberry and plum fruit, baking spices, fruitcake, and a voluptuous finish that suggests easy early drinking. (90 Points)

Domaines Barons de Rothschild Légende 2016 Médoc ($  ) Ripe and toasty with a spicy nose and ripe plum, currant, cinnamon and tobacco flavors, it seems a little clumsy next to the Pauillac, but it's packed with flavor and well-made. I wonder if this bottle might have gotten a bit hot in transit. (86 Points)

Domaines Barons de Rothschild Légende 2017 Bordeaux Rouge ($19) I think this wine is just terrific for the price. What makes a texbook Bordeaux? Mostly black and a bit of red currant fruit, a little cinnamon, and delicate herb notes. There's not too much new oak on this wine and it's eminently drinkable. You could serve it with almost anything. It's really quite simple and inexpensive, but it shows the elegance and class that has made Bordeaux a renowned wine region for centuries. Definitely recommended. (89 Points)

Domaines Barons de Rothschild Légende 2019 Bordeaux Blanc ($19) A very nice white Bordeaux blend with clean, fresh melon, citrus and clover notes. A little more concentration would add a 'wow' factor, but as it stands, this is a versatile, very drinkable, lovely white. (88 Points)

 - Tim Teichgraeber

 

Review: Larkmead is Really Growing on Me

 

I haven't had as many opportunities as I would have liked over the years to sample winemaker Dan Petroski's wines from Larkmead, but tasting a couple of recent releases reminds me that Mr. Petroski crafts some of the best balanced, minerally wines in Napa Valley. There aren't dozens of wineries that consistently meet Napa's opulent fruit with proper restraint and truly precise construction the way labels like Dalla Valle and Spottswoode do. Larkmead is definitely on that short list.

Larkmead 2017 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($100) Wow, this is stunning! Lucid, vibrant and elegant, minerally with tangy red currant, black cherry, gravel, blackberry flavors. it is such a graceful, but sunny wine. The oak is beautifully integrated and subtle. So fine. Great length, good acidity, purity, and great fruit. Ultra-clean and delicious. (96 Points) 

Larkmead 2016 Dr. Olmo Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($200) This is a bold wine, but beautifully balanced from every angle. The grapes come from older vines (15+ years) planted wholly on Cortina (gravelly alluvial soil). There's a bit of cassis in the nose, as well as licorice and tobacco. Overall, the flavors skew a bit to the red side with delicious raspberry compote, plum, blueberry pie, white pepper, and it has a pronounced minerally grip on the very long finish. A sublime Napa Cabernet with a long life ahead of it. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1,467 cases produced. (97 Points) 

- Tim Teichgraeber